There are currently five leagues: Bronze, Sliver, Gold, Platinum and All-Star. There are 3 rounds in every tournament. To earn DNA in DNA Tournaments, you must be in Gold League or above.
Tournament Season Statistics
Tourna ment Level
|Tournament Min-Max Trophy Count||Trophy Required for Next Level||Season End Prize Per Level|
|1||Bronze||0-10||10 Trophies||1 Buck|
|2||Silver||10-50||40 Trophies||5 Bucks|
|3||Gold||50-140||90 Trophies||10 Bucks|
|4||Platinum||140-300||160 Trophies||15 Bucks|
|5||All-star||300 - No limit||No Limit||20 Bucks|
DNA Tournament FAQ's
Q-1 : Are opponents in DNA tournament real people?
Ans : None of the people you play are real. If they were, then not only could you be waiting a long time for a tournament to start, but the average win of each person would have to be 12.5 % (1 in 8). Only 1 person in 8 could win each tournament. People would quickly become disheartened as they kept losing and the game wouldn't work. Also, as pointed out below real people would always go for your weakness and finish you off as quickly as possible - that doesn't happen on the bronze and silver levels.
Also, sometimes glitches can happen like an opponent having two of the same dinosaur, or the same player entering twice in the same tournament. Additionally, when on DNA rescue, you face someone who is using that DNA rescue animal, which would be impossible as you can't compete in the DNA rescue if you already had that animal.
Additionally battle durations vary -- some fights are over quickly, some take long time. Yet, every time you win, the other battles in the tournament are done too, even when you beat your opponent quickly. You never have to wait for the other battle's outcome to find out who your next opponent is.
Opponents take a long time to enter the battle, and once they've selected their dinosaurs, they almost always switch. This was likely done by programers to trick players into thinking they are fighting real people, but it happens nearly every time.
When you play most opponents and use your special attacks, they congratulate you. Needless to say, this is not basic human nature.
Q-2 : When does DNA rescue Tournament start?
Ans : DNA rescue tournament starts every week on Friday and lasts 4 days.
Q-3 : In which are dinosaurs available for rescue in DNA Tournament from the three available parks?
Ans : Every week, any dinosaur from one of the three parks is available for DNA rescue and this happens periodically. See this link for a history of the animals that have been on offer. While one animal won't be on offer in consecutive weeks, it is possible that animals from the same park will be on offer in consecutive weeks
Q-4: Am I limited to Dinosaurs that correlate with the levels of the DNA Tournaments e.g. Bronze level Dinosaurs can only be used in Bronze level Tournament and Silver level Dinosaurs in Silver etc.
Ans : Dinosaur selection for DNA Tournament battles for any player is independent of your level in DNA Tournaments. For example, you can use a Gold Level Dinosaur in Bronze Level Tournaments and Silver Level Dinosaur in All-star level Tournaments.
Battle Weakness Formula
In case the player is unaware of the weakness of the current Dinosaur they are battling, there is a formula. There are three attacks in this order: Charge, Bite, and Swipe. Each attack deals either low, moderate, or high damage to a certain Dinosaur. The high damage attack is always to the left of the low charging attack and right of the moderate attack. For example, if a Dinosaur's weakness is charge, bite will deal low damage and swipe does moderate damage. If Bite deals the high damage, swipe will deal low damage and charge deals moderate. If Swipe is the high damage dealer, Charge will deal low damage and Bite deals moderate damage. In other words, the amount of damage one attack deals determines the rest. This enables the player to figure out which attack deals high damage after their first attack instead of running the risk of a 50/50 chance of finding the high damage attack if their first one isn't the correct one.
Season in A Tournament
The tournament takes place over a set period of time. A player has a total of 26 days to reach the Allstar League and earn the maximum amount of points. However, in addition to the money won in winning a tournament, once the season ends a player can receive an additional reward. The reward is dependent on the league you finish on. It does not matter whether you complete a Gold League or any other fully. You merely need to reach it to be able to receive the rewards associated with it. As the official statistics state, you get:
BRONZE - 1 
SILVER - 5 
GOLD - 10 
PLATINUM - 15 
ALLSTAR - 20 
The tournament season end rewards are another outlet to receiving additional ingame money with the final reward ranging from a minimum of 3 to 60  bucks maximum depending on how you place in all three parks. Ideally, the higher your league in both parks, the better it is.
Tournaments In Practice I
Playing the tournaments is straighforward: choose the best dinosaurs with the best health and attack for each of the three legs of a single tournament. This is how many times one has to win in order to receive the points and the  bucks. Essentially, you can choose up to the maximum of 9 animals for one tournament. You can choose less, but it may not guarantee the victory. It might be better to be prepared for the worst.
The actual choice and mix of animals is dependent on your own strategy, but more on the topic later. (Dear contributors, you can add other strategies to this article below if you like.)
As it has been mentioned before the tournament consists of three legs, i.e. you will face three different opponents and you must emerge victorious from all three to receive the final reward. Yet, if you are defeated before you can still have some consolation prizes. If you are defeated in the second round, you can receive points, especially if you entered the specific dinosaur required for bonus points. If you are defeated in the final round, you will receive both points and the  bucks you paid to participate. Essentially, you will receive the fee back and not lose any  bucks, though, you will receive no profit too. The defeat in the first round carries no consolation reward, though.
The real advantage in battling the opponent is to have the maximum allowed claws for special attacks, i.e. 210 claws. The only ways to earn them is to either get them in the Battle Arena or by spending  bucks on them. Getting them in the arena is free or charge. Buying them for  bucks is not really worth it, because it quite expensive. On a good day you can make 225 claws and counting. Usually, it is possible to earn for 3 tournaments if you have a left-over from the previous day.
Only the dinosaurs from the Jurassic Park can earn claws in Battle Arena, so if possible acquire as many as you can for Jurassic Park first. Adjust your claw-making strategy to your needs, of course. One strategy is to use the top-tiered dinosaurs as fighters and all others as "claw'-farmers" in Battle Arena. Alternatively, one can use all, but there is the waiting period after each battle which has to be taken into account. Adjust as suits you best.
When facing an opponent try to see whether it is possible to win by conserving the claws. If it is possible and the victory is guaranteed, it is better not to flaunt your "power" and conserve the claws for the future battles. Naturally, it is all dependent on the battle and the situation. Some victories are easy, while others are a bare win even by using up all the claws for blocks and special moves. It is possible to lose if you underestimate the opponent's draw on health and not use your own claws for special attack opting for regular instead, i.e. in trying to conserve claws you underestimate the health of the opponent and they end up winning.One is able to better judge their chances of winning without claws with practice. The victory over the opponent is the ultimate goal in the end. Sometimes it is possible to conserve up to a half or perhaps more of your claw reserves, sometimes you triumph over you opponent just barely even with the full claws utilized. All is dependent on the situation.
Tournaments In Practice II
To ensure your win you have to think not just which animals to choose for the battles ahead, but you must also take care you do not fall "prey" to the following. There is more than one way of loosing a battle and not just to the opposing player/bot.
Before you enter a tournament, move to a place where the wi-fi/internet signal is the strongest in your home/premises. This will ensure the game runs properly. If you are playing on your laptop, close every unneccessary program. If you are playing from you smartphone, do the same.
Particular care must be taken by the people playing from their smartphones.If you have the option to disable incoming calls/being reached by people, then do so. Ensure no other app can interfere. Examples: (will enter 2 very invasive, but useful apps soon). The reason is simple. At this moment in time there exists no protection for the player from Ludia's side and their entering fee if they get disconnected in the game. This is precisely what happens and it is very disappointing. If somebody calls you in the middle of a tournament, you will be disconnected The same if a warning/notice from another app pops up. The same if you get disconnected due to wi-fi/network problems. The game coding just cannot handle a pause, no matter how short or long, in the tournament. The game is not flexible when it comes to this. The  bucks you paid to participate will not be returned to you. Yet, ironically enough this how you may be lucky to win a tournament. Sometimes you might get a notice in the middle of your tournament that the other player has disconnected. You will win that tournament by default then.
Also, there is no option to exit a tournament battle save that of seeing it to the end unlike in the Battle Arena where you can simply exit.
How to Prepare to Win in the Tournaments
There's no magic "I win" button - that would take the fun out of it, but these are some key ways to make winning easier:
1) Have your top nine dinosaurs at roughly the same ferocity (within a band of about 20 to 30). This is really important.
2) Don't trust the ferocity rating the game gives a dinosaur. For example (from GP) a level 21 Moeritherium has health 4489 and max attack 1447. A level 25 Kaprosuchus has health 4375 and max attack 2030. Clearly the Kaprosuchus is better, but its ferocity is less. This leads me onto point 3.
3) Having picked a "base" ferocity to work with, you want the top nine animals at this ferocity with the best attack to health ratio. This is NOT the top nine level 40 animals. This tends to be meat eaters - yes they will be on a higher level (as per note 2 above), but for the same health you want the best attack. This is NOT generally the Gold dinosaurs.
The best dinosaurs are not necessarily Gold or DNA rescue dinosaurs. The Jurassic dinosaur with the best attack to health ratio is Carcharodontosaurus (0.76). However, as this is a very low dinosaur your top nine dinosaurs will easily be better than this one. Using a "base" health of 2500 the following dinosaurs (non bucks, non DNA rescue) would be your top tournament fighters:
|Name||Attack to Health ratio||Name||Ratio||Name||Ratio|
Note that the bucks and DNA rescue animals usually have a ratio of around 0.46 for all the parks. But Dreadnoughtus and Euoplocephalus only have a ratio of 0.32, making them the "worst" tournament fighters.
Of course for players who have maxed out their dinosaurs, this strategy doesn't work (unless they want to reset their dinosaurs), but for new players this will work wonders.
Of course a maxed out T-rex is better than a maxed out Pteranodon - I'm not trying to say it isn't, but a Level 37 Pteranodon has a health of 2498 and an attack of 1548. A Level 11 Tyrannosaurus has a health of 2520 and an attack of 1166. At this base health level, the Pteranodon is clearly better as it has a vastly superior damage output.
Of course if you set yourself a lower health setting on Aquatic and Glacier, this opens you up to "better" animals to use in the tournament like Gastornis (0.62) and the Woolly Mammoth (0.60).
So, in conclusion, you don't need the top nine level 40 animals to do well in a tournament. Indeed, as you feed your animals, the computer simply puts up better opponents against you. It's not like the battle arena where you proceed to the next fixed level. Upgrading your animals for tournament fighting is an arms race you can't win, and when you get too high the quality of the animals you can use actually decreases as their attack to health ratio decreases as you use stronger animals to get the actual high ferocity. Also the recharge time for the animals increases.
Strategy to Win in the Tournaments
Having prepared properly to win in the tournament. here's a guide on how to try to win each battle.
1) Have sheet of paper listing all the weaknesses and always go for it (as mentioned below).
2) If your dinosaur is low on health, don't block, just let it die (unless it's your last one!). Save your blocks to try to counter specials.
3) Only special if it will make a difference. What I mean is if two normal attacks will finish off the opponent, but one special isn't enough to finish the opponent off - don't special - it will take two attacks regardless. Use your specials where it will make a difference on the total number of attacks it takes to kill your opponent.
4) Don't put your best dinosaur first. Use a meat shield - it's better your opponent blocks against the weaker attacks of your meat shield and specials your meat shield than rip into your prize fighter. They might not, but if they do it's a "bonus" - they won't be blocking the attacks that do more damage.
5) Try to protect your best fighter by blocking when they are in the arena - as they do the most damage back.
6) Don't save your specials because the opponent might block. Else you get to their last animal and you won't be able to use all three specials - the second or third one will be wasted. If a special will make a difference and will finish an animal, but a normal attack won't - do it.
6) It is usually not worth swapping animals unless you are absolutely confident your opponent will block. If they don't block you've wasted an opportunity to attack.
7) It's impossible to predict exactly when the opponent will special, but experience will give you a gut feel when they might do. I find they usually do either at the start (into my meat shield) or when their second animal comes in.
DNA Rescue Animals - OverviewFirst things first, let us have a general overview on DNA rescues. DNA rescue is a regular event in Jurassic Park Builder. Basically, it starts every Friday and lasts almost 4 days. A different animal will be offered as a prize of a successful rescue. The reward animals will rotate every week, meaning that if a Jurassic Park dinosaur was available previously, then the next animal will be from Aquatic Park and so on and so forth. Previous animals will become available again if missed before.
A single DNA rescue tournament also consists of 3 legs, where you will also need to beat 3 opponents to win. If you win the tournament by defeating all 3 you can open all 3 DNA containers which are offered for you as spoils of your win. One of them will contain 1 DNA required. To get the animal for free you will need 12 DNAs. All others will be empty. Players who get defeated in the final round or before will only be offered 2 or 1 container to open as a consolation prize. In such cases, the end result more often than not is an empty container, unfortunately, meaning you get no DNA. The DNA is only guaranteed if you win all 3 rounds of the tournament. A screen will pop up afterwards which shows your progression in the rescue and how many bucks are left to bring down still.
At the start of the rescue each animals costs 720 bucks. The price is not fixed and is brought down by 60 bucks with every successful win in each park's tournament. Depending the strength of your animal teams and whether you level up your animals equally without large variations in level differences, you can start with 1 win per park per day. At the end of of the DNA rescue you will be able to afford the animal for only 180. If you can fit more than 1 win per park per day, you can even have the animal for free. However, it all depends also how many claws are needed for a successful tournament. Sometimes it is possible to win without claws or using only 1/3 or 2/3 of claws necessary for the tournament.
A single tournament out of allows for 3 blocks and 3 special attacks.
However, to participate one has to be in Gold League and upwards. Once the DNA rescue starts, the buck rewards from all tournaments are increased by quite a lot. E.g. A tournament payout in Gold League with DNA rescue going on is 48 bucks total, out of which 12 is needed to participate. Without DNA rescue the most you can hope for is only 20 bucks, including 4 bucks as the entry fee.
But once you have got the DNA rescue animal you cannot participate in subsequent DNA rescues for that particular animal. This potentially shuts off a good source of bucks as you can no longer get the increased bucks reward the next time this animal is up for DNA rescue. It sound counter-intuitive, but as you "need" bucks to get the limited expedition DNA on glacier (and for a lesser extent Aquatic) a good tactic is to participate in the DNA rescue, but NOT to get the animal. That way you get the extra bucks each time this animal is up for rescue. Just get the best one or two tournament rescue animals and not get the weaker ones and use these rescues as a source of bucks income.
Tips To Get The DNA Rescue Animal
The easiest and the least fussy way is to pay 720 bucks and be done with it. However, not everyone can afford or would want to pay that much, because, frankly speaking, 720 is too much for many players. This also takes away from the thrill of winning tournaments.
The overview above is given on purpose. You are already probably thinking what the above means you should do to win by now. So without further ado, here goes.
1. Have Enough Fangs. This applies to a single tournament (consisting of facing 3 different opponents) and to the entire 4-day DNA Rescue tournament. Without fangs a player will be at a disadvantage from the start. 3,200 fangs (half for tournaments and half as a spare, though fewer fangs are necessary as a trend) is recommended or fewer if you can do with fewer fangs. Calculate how many claws you need depending on your usage and need.
I like to have seevenly together, because, apparently, the level of your opponents is in direct dependence on the level of your top animals, so tread carefully.
3. Try To Use 3 Animals Every Tournament. More animals means more overall health and attack combined from using all three animals. Plus, some strategies call for three animals. It is better to have as many fighters as possible on your team to cover all possibilities.
4. Earn Fangs Way Before The DNA Rescue Day. The day of the DNA Rescue is usually Friday. Do not rely on mainly earning fangs during the rescue, because one will not earn as much. Depending on usage, have a minimum of 3,200 fangs before the tournament, taking into account the fact, that you might save 1/3 to 2/3 of claws per battle.
5. Have Leftover Bucks. This is necessary to cover all eventualities, including possible defeat and lack of time for a tournament among others. Anything can happen which might prevent you from getting enough wins before the end. Planning is crucial. Having around 150-180 bucks is a good idea. Plus, you will get more with every successful win.
6. Do Not Waste Current Bucks. This includes wasting bucks on bringing animals back during the tournaments. One can win in the Gold League and the Platinum League without bringing dinosaurs back usually.
7. On The DNA Rescue Day, You Must Already Be Placed In Gold League. Unless you have animals aplenty to play several times per day, there is no way one can get a rescue animal by starting to play from Bronze League on DNA Rescue day. You will simply not have the time and wins to actually get the animal. You must level up to Gold League days before the actual DNA Rescue. Once you hit the Gold League, do not do anymore tournaments and wait for the rescue to come.
8. Have A List of Animal Weakness On Hand. You can either write it all down somewhere or print them all out for personal use. Dish out as much damage as you can in a fight using this advice. Do not waste even one move without going for your opponent's weakness. Always go for the opponent's weakness. One move with maximum damage or lack of may be a difference between a win and a loss. Unless you are unaware or a new player, all animals in Jurassic Park Builder have a specific weakness assigned to them. E.g. for a T-Rex it is bite, meaning if your dinosaur (any dinosaur) bites a T-Rex, he will lose the most health due to it (the amount of damage will depend on the battle level your dinosaur is at; it all depends on the dinosaur you are using, but you can rest assured you will dish the maximum damage, save for special attack with claws). The weaknesses are static and do not change. If you wish to view them all, check out the Max Stats for all three parks. After playing the battles after a while, one can even have the weaknesses memorised mostly. Similar categories of animals have similar weakness (Brontosaurus, Brachiosaurus and Amargasaurus have bite as a weakness), though not always, so watch out for exceptions.
9. Focus On The Battle At Hand. Do not get distracted and remember that while you still have blocks, you get mere seconds to actually block your opponent successfully. Focus is key. Distractions lead to silly mistakes.
10. Try To Focus On Getting Animals From A Single Park First. A good idea is to start by getting JP dinosaurs first. The are your prime claw earners after all. The other parks will soon follow. The DNA rescue dinosaurs are not available as often as other dinosaurs, so check out each dinosaur's page to more or less pinpoint which is coming up soon next. Make yourself familiar with top fighters in each park.
11. Use Fangs Wisely And Smartly. The battle goal is to block as many special attacks of you opponent as possible and dish out as many special attacks on you opponent without them blocking said attacks. Conserve fangs where feasible. Never use special attacks to finish an opponent when a regular attack can do the job. You will learn by seeing how much health you attacks consume from the opponent, so be watchful. Conserve the special attacks instead. Protect your top fighters with blocks. Do not be afraid to use some animals as shields. Try to come up with a strategy that works for you, but remember the higher the League, the more difficult it is to win.
Good Luck :)